Well, we survived the night and the invasion of the bugs. Believe it or not we were actually woken by a rooster that was walking around the van. Funny place this. It was rather foggy outside and I was honked by the ducks and geese as I ventured into the insects domain. There were still a few around mind you and the warm breeze added to the eerie conditions. We made a quick cuppa and decided to have breakfast further on down the track. We stopped at Birdling’s flat to check out the beach but only found a shite load of pebbles instead. None the less, more awesome views of the coastline and there were many a sea bird flying around. We also stopped to get a good look down the length of the lake that we stayed on.
Then back on the road. Drove straight on past the Lincoln Uni (rather impressive). As we were travelling along, the wind picked up a bit and got stronger and stronger. They have a lot of high hedges that I can only guess they use as wind breaks. Now these windbreaks were great until you got to a driveway. Then it was a jump to the left. Then a kick to the right.
We stopped for a loo stop and had our breaky of muesli and yogurt at the roadside. Ah, the freedom. Our next mission was to find an aux cable so we could hook up the iPod/phone to the stereo. This may end up being the purchase of the trip. As we ducked through Ashburton we spotted a Repco. Mission accomplished and for a mere $20 at that. Now we were ROCKIN’.
Not long after that, we turned off the ‘One’ and headed for those ominous white peaked mountains. The weather was starting to clear and somehow the wind kept getting stronger. We stopped a few times. Once at Geraldine where we picked up a DEC (National parks) campsite book, guides and not forgetting the ice cream, cheese and fudge (hey we were on holidays). We continued on the awesome drive. Only problem was that you would get half way around a tight corner and these splendid mountains would hit the optic nerve and take away all concentration that should have been on the road. We got to a lookout and had to stop. It had a plaque that told us the height of the mountains that we were stunned by were only 1800-2000m high. Mt Cook stands at 3700+.
After another loo stop (are we back in Tassie) we turned right and headed straight for the mountains. More glorious driving. We came around one corner and this turquoise lake, big sucker too lay in front of us. I am sure both our jaws hit the floor simultaneously coupled with a certain verbal expression. It was Lake Tekapo. Although she was very choppy it was stunningly beautiful. We stopped, as you do at the church of the good Shepard. Blowing a gale had now officially become an understatement. We walked inside the church and it truly was a refuge. Warm and still, worlds away from the ravishing conditions outside. Over the alter was a huge window with a heavenly view over the lake. When I think about it, it was the most profound feeling of peace, serenity and safety that I have ever got going into a church. The house of God, but this one also had the backyard to suit. Of course how could I forget, the backdrop of rugged snow covered mountains?
We walked around or should I say battled the winds to see the monument to the Sheppard’s dog. Went down to the water, that was not too cold, but plenty of waves and so, so blue. A few more photos, another loo stop, picked up some souvenirs and the cheapest socks and undies I have seen in 20 years. Normally they cost 10x more is such a tourist ravished place like this. I picked up 3 pair of thermal socks for under the price of 2 pies. We planed to eat them (pies, not socks) at the top of Mt John near the observatory overlooking the lake. Drove out there and the road was closed due to high winds. Yep, it was that windy. So we thought down steam from the dam should be nice and scenic. We got there and were able to set up camp next to a blue canal. Looked very unnatural, but we had inadvertently stumbled on a spot protected from the wind. Out with the camping chairs. Meat pies, corn chips and salsa. Life is good.
Back on the road and off towards Mt Cook. We were told by that knowledgeable lady that the road to Mt Cook was one of the roads that was off limits to the van (we though this to be extremely strange, being a major drawcard and all). Then a case of déjà vu. Around another corner to see another wonderful blue lake come into view. We happened to catch this moment on video too. It was Lake Pukaki, from where you can see Mt Cook on a good day. We stopped at the visitors centre, found a nice shotty for the collection and asked about places to free camp. The lady showed us on official and one unofficial spot.
We hung around for a bit as it looked like it was clearing. Watching and listening to the waves (up to 2 feet) hit the shore. It was awesome just soaking up the sight of it. No photo of this ‘ordinary’ day would ever do it justice. How must it look like in real life on a perfect day? (i.e. yesterday) That was actually our original plan, but hey, what’s in a plan? We went to check out the site on the shore of the lake. It was even windier over here. Easily over 100km/h for sure, given the water spirals coming off the lake. There was a small protected area behind a bank of trees, but trees not are necessarily the safest form of shelter in these winds. But, this could be the site of sites, waking up to Mt cook out the back window.
We decided to check out the other spot and it was very nice too, but possibly even windier? The only other time we have seen winds like this, we saw a shed fly into the ocean. We needed some fuel so into Twizel to fill up. $50au to fill up at $1.06NZ per Litre for diesel. Wohoo!!! Then we checked out a couple of van parks to see if they could offer more protection as we were starting to see branches and limbs impersonating the wicked witch of the East.
We found a park that had a nice 10ft hedge to park behind with no trees in sight, but $30 for the site. At least the dude told us that this wind was pretty exceptional, so that made us feel a bit better as we had heard New Zealand was windy, but…..this was ridiculous. He also told us that the road to Mt Cook was very good and the actual road we were not allowed on was actually a 4WD track. Um, as if we would take a campervan 4 wheel driving. Now that bit of info induced a quick change of plans. Lucky we stayed there in the end. Tomorrow, up to Cook village. We hooked up the power, downloaded photos and were not real hungry for dinner. 8 or 9 other campers had the same idea and we fell asleep during a rainy thunderstorm.
P.S. This evening Neil has found the true ’holiday mode’. Actually we both did. We decided that we didn’t care if we leave some stuff out as long as the sites and places we see, we explore properly. Thought about the boys a fair bit wishing for them to be a bit older so they could experience it with us. But! The are not hence they are home with Babi who is loving having them for herself. Also what needs to be added is that the stereo in the van sounds fantastic. Therefore a dose of pink Floyd and Radiohead was had together with some gentleman jack. Lucky we are not suicidal : -) Cant wait for tomorrow. P.P.S. Also I realised I seriously need to broaden my vocabulary (as the f*** word doesn’t quite express the beauty, magnitude and wonder of the places we have seen and undoubtedly will see further on. Therefore note to self: Stop saying F.. all the time, Zuz